The Steadfastener bracket set is specifically designed to fasten heavy mirrors and artwork into 'hollow' walls such as plasterboard. Locating studs is no longer necessary. The Steadfastener distributes the weight of heavy items when secured into plaster board only. It can also be used in most 'cavity-slider' walls without obstructing the sliding door. This heavy duty mirror and picture frame hanger has been tested to hold up to 100kg - see our video below.
how to install the
Step by step instructions
(click on images to see full instructions)
Why choose The Steadfastener over other products?
Developed & Tested by a Professional Picture Hanger | Carries More Weight | Better Structure, Holes, Screws & Plugs
01
Developed & Tested by a Professional Picture Hanger
The Steadfastener was born out of necessity. As a professional picture hanger, I knew that my clients deserved a better picture hanging hardware solution than what was currently on the market. After much research and development, I created the Steadfastener, a bracket set that is both strong and durable. It is designed to safely hold up to 100kg and allows you to confidently hang your treasured artwork or mirror without fear of it falling off the wall. The installation is easy and with the satisfaction of knowing your frame is secure, you'll have more time to enjoy your artwork or mirror.
02
Other products don't hold as much weight
Other hanging brackets, (although very useful up to a certain weight limit), are in fact advertised & rated as holding much less weight. The Steadfastener’s rating (one pair) exceeds 100kg (refer to our youtube video 'Steadfastener 100kg test’).
03
Double Wall Housing
The Steadfastener has double wall housing for rigidity of screw when fixed into a wall plug. Whereas the single plate gauged brackets of other products on the market are only 1.5mm thick.
04
Our Screw Holes are Tighter
The holes in the alloy plate of other products are much larger than necessary, allowing for excess slop (independent movement), of screws against the plate face. The Steadfastener holes are a tight fit for the screws - attaining even micro movement of screws when under load.
05
We have the right screws
Other products use Black Screws… which are good quality & can even be screwed into masonry (with a pilot hole), but alas, are the incorrect 'type’ of screw for hollow-walls, or more to the point, into hollow-wall plugs. These screws are referred to as ‘Self-Tappers’ due to their deep, large, sharp ‘thread'. Designed primarily to slice into or ‘cut-through’ on entry into just about any material, as opposed to 'push-out’ or expand on entry in the case of the wall plug (which is the required intent of screws into plugs, into hollow-wall gib). The Steadfastener screws are an economical type of screw, however they are the correct type of gauge and thread type for the intended purpose of expanding the hollow wall plug.
06
We have the right plugs
Other products plugs are small, inferior poly-plastic uni-plugs (the kind that you would find in any item, furniture, shelving, door stops, toilet roll holders, etc… that are manufactured in China). A generic type plug that is super cheap to produce, prolific, mass produced & ideal for masonry walls, intended for the European marke, due to the type of European wall construction. These are not at all suitable for New Zealand plaster walls. The cheaper plugs allow for too much slop when the screw is inserted. The Steadfastener plugs are expensive by comparison - larger, engineered & manufactured in USA. Whatever thoughts are of the USA, they make superior plugs.
07
A combined synergy
The combined synergy achieved when using superior materials, provides the superior & of course safer result.
With this in mind, I therefore would suggest that, in the words of the modern day prophet and influencer, Kanye West... "you-gets-what-you-pays-for!"
1. Screw brackets to back of frame
Measure and mark accurately 30mm down from the top of frame (or appropriate distance). Do this on both the left side and the right side of frame (fig 1). Then mark another point 50mm in from sides of frame as well (fig 2). Drill small pilot hole at those points (fig 3). Insert screw through bracket (‘open’ edge faces DOWN) and screw into single predrilled hole. Do not over-tighten (fig 4). This allows bracket to be adjusted before putting in other screws. Ensure that brackets are level with top of frame. Drill and screw remaining screws through bracket holes. Hand tighten, gently.
2. Plot points to wall
Locate and plot the centre of wall using a pin as a marker. Measure the full height of frame (this is the ‘height’ measurement). Transfer height measurement to wall where 'centre-pin’is (fig 5). Press two pins into wall to plot the top & bottom of height. Once pins are in wall, stand back several feet and consider their height in relation to floor & ceiling. This might take several attempts before settling on height.
Measure the outside span of both brackets fastened to back of frame. This is our width measurement. Transfer the “width” measurement to wall approx 70mm down from top pin (fig 6), being sure to centre them using the ‘centre’ pin as guide (fig 7). Level the ‘width’ pins and the centre pin (fig 8). Once the width pins are centered at the correct span and are level, all other pins can be removed, leaving only the ‘width’ pins.
3. Drill holes and insert plugs
(fig 9) Hold single bracket
(open edge facing UP) in left hand and place carefully up to the inside of right hand pin (if you are ‘left handed’ then reverse this process to the inside of left hand pin). You are attempting to get the bottom of bracket exactly in line with the pin. With drill (& 3mm bit) in right hand, drill through hole nearest to pin (fig 10). Remove bracket (but leave pin in). Replace 3mm drill-bit with 6mm bit. Now redrill existing hole with 6mm bit, insert 6mm plastic plug (fig 11). If drilling hits wood/steel stud, then there is no need to re-drill with the 6mm bit. Insert 6mm plug into 6mm hole and tap into wall so that plastic flange disk is flat to wall (fig 12), take care not to over hit plug and fracture the gib surrounding the plug.
4. Fitting brackets into plugs
Insert screw through bracket-hole then into plug (fig 13), screw in fully but do not over tighten. Rest‘level’on bracket and straighten (fig 14). Drill remaining holes with 3mm bit through bracket (fig 15). Pivit bracket away so as to expose 3mm holes, redrill holes with 6mm if necessary (fig 16).
Insert plugs into 6mm holes, and tap into place. Do not over-hit (fig 17). Reposition bracket over plugs and screw in remaining screws. Hand-tighten, gently (fig 18 & 19). Repeat process for opposite side.
Brackets on back of mirror will sit into
brackets on wall like this (fig 20).
Measure & Mark in 30mm down from top of frame - on both sides.
Mark 50mm in from sides of frame.
pre-drill, insert screw through bracket ('open' edge faces DOWN) and screw into single pre-drilled hole.
Insert screw through bracket ('open' edge faces DOWN) and screw into single predrilled hole.
Locate & plot the centre of wall using a pin as a marker. Measure the full height of frame. This is the 'height' measurement. Transfer height measurement to wall where 'centre-pin' is. Press two pins into wall to plot the top & bottom of height. Once pins are in wall, stand back several feet and consider their height in relation to floor & ceiling. This might take several attempts before settling on height.
Measure the outside span of both brackets fastened to back of frame. this is our width measurement. Transfer the 'width' measurement to wall approx 70mm down from top of pin.
Centre them using the centre pin.
Level the "width" pins and the centre pin. Once the width pins are centered at the correct span and are level, all other pins can be removed, leaving only the "width" pins.
Hold single bracket (open edge facing UP) in left hand and place carefully up to the inside of right hand pin (if you are ‘left handed’ then reverse this process to the inside of lefthand pin). You are attempting to get the bottom of bracket exactly in line with pin.
With drill (& 3mm bit) in right hand, Drill through hole nearest to pin.
Remove bracket (but leave pin in). Replace 3mm drill-bit with 6mm bit, now re-drill existing hole with 6mm bit, insert 6mm plastic plug.
If drilling hits wood/steel stud, then there is no need to re drill with the 6mm bit. Insert 6mm plug into 6mm hole and tap into wall so that plastic flange disk is flat to wall), take care not to over hit plug and fracture the gib. surrounding the plug.
Insert screw through bracket-hole then into plug, screw in fully but do not over tighten.
Rest ‘level’ on bracket and straighten.
Drill remaining holes with 3mm bit through bracket.
Pivot bracket away so as to expose 3mm holes, re-drill holes with 6mm if necessary.
Insert plugs into 6mm holes, and tap into place. Do not over-hit.
Reposition bracket over plugs and screw in remaining screws. Hand-tighten, gently.
Repeat process for opposite side. Brackets on back of mirror will sit into brackets on wall like this.
Brackets at rest